Kamakura-A Temple, A Shrine & A Buddha

The Lecture Hall, Kencho-ji Temple (Photo by S. Kopecki)

Kamakura is an hour's train ride south of Tokyo, settled between the sea to the east and the hills to the west.  Kamakura was the political and military center of Japan from the late 11th century until the mid-14th century.  This was also a period of religious flowering in Japan, marked by the arrival of Zen Buddhism from China as well as many new native sects.  As Buddhism swept into Japan, many temples began to be built and here in Kamakura they have been preserved ever since.

Temple Bell from the 13th century

Temple Monks

The NCTA group got to spend a lovely day in Kamakura touring many sights of this historical spot with the help of some wonderful women, all members of the local Soroptomist Club.  First we toured the Zen Kencho-ji temple, home of Japan's oldest Zen training momastery.  The temple complex is formed in a linear arrangement and joined by stone stairways and paths that blend harmoniously with their natural surroundings.  Within them monks continue to live and worship according to the rules first laid out over 500 years ago.  While taking a tour we observed a zazen, or sitting meditation class and looked out upon the zen garden.

The Mai-den, or open-sided stage

View From Atop The Shrine

A Shrine Priest collecting offerings of the faithful

After lunch we our group headed to the Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu, the Minamoto clan's guardian shrine.  Shintoism is the native religion of Japan.  The word Shinto means "the way of the Kami."  Shintoism involves a collection of rituals and methods meant to mediate the relations of living humans to the Kami, or nature spirits and focuses on people's harmony with nature.  Coming in from the side we first blessed ourselves at the shrine's fountain and then were told the history behind the was told the sad story behind the maiden, or open-sided stage which stands at the bottom of the shrine.  Shizuka, the brave heroine of the story was the mistress of Minamoto's brother, Yoshitsune.  Jealous of his brother's popularity and possible bid for the throne, Minamoto took Shizuka hostage in order to force his brother to appear and then to be killed by the samurai leader. When Shizuka  was asked to dance for the Samurai leader, she refused, declaring her undying love for his brother instead. Though Shizuka's life was spared, her newborn child, son of Yoshitsune, was killed.  Her bravery is commemorated to this day in classical dances and plays during the shrine's festival every September 14th-16th.

The Minamoto Clan's Guardian Shrine

We next made our way up to the top of the Main Shrine and from there caught a great view of the entire shrine complex including the torii gates that mark the entrance straight from the sea to the shrine itself.

Shinto Priest

Our day in Kamakura ended with a visit to the Daibutsu, or Great Buddha.  I loved hearing the story of this 750 year old  bronze Buddha, the second largest Buddha in Japan.  The Buddha sits on the grounds of the Kotoku-in temple.  He sits atop a stone pedestal, lost in deep meditation with his head slightly bowed.  The 13 meter tall Buddha was once covered in gold leaf and enclosed by a large wooden temple.  Twice the temple complex was hit by tsunami waves and twice destroyed and rebuilt while the Buddha continued to sit there, a quiet, peaceful witness to the forces of nature and the passage of time.

The Great Buddha of Kamakura